I heard many stories of fraud and how people, especially tourists and expats being ripped off in Moscow. It starts with reports of corrupt militia (police) officers stopping you and making up a problem with your papers and it ended with a story about you finding a wallet of which $50 were missing.
But all of these were stories. Things I have read or heard, until last night. Irene, Susie, Richard and Gary are old friends from New York. They flew into Moscow and move on to a wedding in St.Petersburg today. I recommended the Hotel Rossia to them, because its fairly priced, the rooms are average, its clean and conveniently located just near Kremlin. At night we had a few beers and dinner, before I brought them back to Rossia. We wanted to have another drink and spontaneously visited the Hotel bar in Rossia. The guys had another round of beers, Sonia a Coke (she was driving) and the other two girls felt for some red wine. On the other tables we had plenty of company from other hotel guests, but I also saw plenty of really ugly and used whores waiting for some clients. I formerly knew Rossia for its tight controls. Security guys don’t let anybody enter the rooms, if they are not registered to the room. No matter, if girl or boy. But it seems the tight controls are not about the fear of terror or prostitutes robbing some guest in the room. Its actually sort of a protection of the local pimps business.

My best friend Irene. My NYC buddies in Moskva.
After an hour I ordered the bill and have been pretty surprised to find more than $110 on the handwritten bill. We called the waitress and asked about the two red wines, which were 1000 Rubels ($33) each and just called “vino” on the bill. The waitress leaves and I can see her standing at the bar, talking to her colleague and looking in the menu for some wine that fits the bill. She comes back with the menu and shows us some Spanish wine. Rioja you know? Well, if you know wine and you have ever had a Rioja you know that this wine has a particular spicy taste and what we had wasn’t Rioja.
It was obvious we were being ripped off. Richard got really pissed and started to yell at the girl. After 5 minutes of loud arguing I started to work on the waitress and said to her in a very calm way: “Look, obviously you tried pulling off some con her, but we are not the stupid kind of tourist that you usually have. I give you the opportunity to fix this problem right now or I will make a big scandal out of this and you’ll loose your job. If I were you, I’d take that bill and correct it. Right now!”

St. Basil one warm spring night.
But god cop, bad cop didn’t work. She didn’t go for it. One should expect, that they try and give up once it gets complicated, but no it got worse and worse. More waitresses came to our table and when we asked for the manager they told us there was none, they’d all be managers. When asking for their names, they started to cover their name tags. But still, all the time they were insisting that they didn’t cheat on us. The whole thing became a scandal already and I am sure it was entertaining for the other guests of the bar. We started working on the girls one after another, yelling at them from time to time. Richard left $40 on the table and we wanted to leave, but they started grabbing Irene’s bag and we almost got some fight going. Irene left her bag with Richard and the waitresses holding on to it. She left to get someone from the reception of the hotel, while I started to ask for the empty or open bottle of wine they had served us. Oh yes, of course I can see that. Its laying in the trash. And?, I ask? We will not look through the trash now, they answer. I will, I say. They agree and for a minute I am starting to think that we are the bad people and we may really have done a mistake and it all was a mis-understanding. While I go back to the bar and get the girl to show me the trashcan, the other waitresses are raving: “Look at these idiots. Stupid foreigners don’t want to pay their bill. Now he will look in the trash and we will call all the hotel to watch this trash searching bump.” No problem. I take an old beer bottle and steer through the trashcan. No wine bottle there, not even an empty cheap one. The girls start to get a bit of panic. Now I start yelling at them, because I really have enough of that stupidity at 2 AM in the morning. I am tired, want to end this and go home.

The Hotel Bar: Still laughing, but not for long. A glass of red wine, please.
I threaten the girls repeatedly to empty the trashcan on the floor. Of course its only a thread, but they seem to take me serious now, trying to hold on to the bin when I reach for it. Smile. I am still yelling, threatening them to make sure they will all loose their jobs. Irene turns up with the receptionist, which is trying to be a mediator. Not a real help or any success in sight: The waitresses call us thieves and threaten us with the police.

Richard: Getting upset?
Yes, right. That’s a good idea. Let’s call the police. I am not sure that is a good idea, after all we are foreigners and probably they know each other. I keep yelling and shortly later the Militia (police) has arrived. Sonia starts explaining the situation to the cops and since she is Russian and obviously not a prostitute, but from a good family, they listen carefully. You can see their brains working and trying to figure out what to do. The cops are very friendly with the waitressed and call them with cozy names. Obviously they know them very well.
After talking for a bit they tell them to let us go. The cops don’t know who we are, but its clear to them, that we are not just some stupid tourists and they don’t know about our connections and if we can mean trouble to them. They seem to be scared that wrong doing will backfire on them somehow. So they are super polite, smiling and trying to convince the waitresses to let us go. They even tell us, that this is not the first time it happens, but usually people give up. We didn’t.
After another 15 minutes we are leaving and we had paid $4. Not more. The cops offered us to file a law suit, but we let it go. It is 3 AM by now and we are all tired of this. In any case these law suits don’t bring anything than burocracy and nerve wrecking times at the police station, as we have seen with our broken car window (see “Broken Glass”).

Rioja for $33/glass or cheap wine from Moldavia?
My advice to you and what I have once again learned out if this. Be careful at all times, negotiate prices BEFORE you order (taxi, food, drinks), be clear and sincere with your order. Fight for your right!
I still can’t believe the girls pulled that through until the end. But, the more I think of it, it doesn’t seem to be a single try to con us, but an organized thing that they were probably told to do as often as they can, by someone above. As Rossia protects their local prostitutes, by not letting any other girl go up to a room (not even a girlfriend) with a guest, it seems to me, its all organized from above. Sort of a Mafia thing.
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